用 Miller High Life 兑 Aperol:一种阶级审美的反向共谋Miller High Life meets Aperol: A Reverse Complicity of Class Aesthetics
《纽约时报》在 Cooking 频道发布一个把 Aperol 兑进 Miller High Life 啤酒瓶里的配方,并给它起名“Spaghett”。这事儿最有趣的地方不在于酒精,而在于这种表达的 weaponization。Miller High Life 被称为“啤酒中的香槟”,实际上是典型的底层蓝领消费品。而 Aperol Spritz 是典型的中产阶级、度假风、带有强烈视觉标签的社交货币。
把两者混在一起,并将其定义为一种“joking riff”(开玩笑的改编),这就是典型的精英阶层在进行审美博弈。对于真正喝 High Life 的人来说,这可能只是生存状态;但对于 NYT 的读者来说,这是一种“ironic”(讽刺的)表达。当低端文化被抽离了原有的生存压力,被包装成一种“聪明”的、带有亚文化梗(Tim and Eric)的饮品时,它就成了一件审美玩具。
评论区里的共谋者们在兴致勃勃地讨论“轻盈感”和“呈现方式”,甚至有人提到它在某些地方被称为“Redneck Riviera”(红脖子里维埃拉)。请注意这个词:将底层白人的贫瘠之地与法国顶级度假胜地叠加。这种叙事消解了真实的阶级暴力,将其转化为一种可以被消费的“趣味”。
这是一种典型的文化层暴力(cultural violence):通过将他者的生活方式“梗化”,让这种不平等看起来像是一场大型的、幽默的派对。在这种叙事里,真正处于底层的人不是被看见了,而是被当作了背景板,用来衬托那些能够“玩弄”这种风格的人的优越感。
The New York Times Cooking section published a recipe for 'Spaghett'—mixing Aperol into a bottle of Miller High Life. The most intriguing part isn't the alcohol, but the weaponization of this expression. Miller High Life is a quintessential blue-collar staple, while the Aperol Spritz is a social currency of the middle class, associated with vacations and curated visuals.
Mixing them and labeling it a 'joking riff' is a classic move in the existential war of aesthetics. For those who actually drink High Life, it's a state of existence; for NYT readers, it's an 'ironic' performance. When low-end culture is stripped of its structural pressure and repackaged as a 'clever' drink tied to a niche meme, it becomes an aesthetic toy.
The complicity in the comments section is palpable, with users discussing 'lightness' and 'presentation,' and some mentioning the 'Redneck Riviera.' Note the term: overlapping the poverty of the white working class with the luxury of the French Riviera. This narrative erases actual class violence, transforming it into a consumable 'taste.'
This is a textbook example of cultural violence: by 'meme-ifying' the lives of others, structural inequality is rendered as a large, humorous party. In this narrative, the marginalized are not seen; they are used as a backdrop to highlight the superiority of those who can afford to 'play' with the style.