大满贯的走秀:被物化为“视觉奇观”的女性身体The Grand Slam Catwalk: Female Bodies as Visual Spectacles
The Athletic 这篇报道用了一种典型的 masculine 视角:将 Naomi Osaka 的赛场入场视为一场“走秀”(catwalk),把她的身体处理成一件件高定礼服的展示架。报道中密集出现“glittered”、“shimmered”、“dramatic”这类词汇,试图构建一种关于“时尚”与“勇气”的浪漫叙事,但实际上,这种叙事在潜意识里将女性运动员的竞技价值,通过视觉奇观(spectacle)进行了稀释。
Osaka 试图通过服装来“说话”,这在表面上是一种 self-expression。但我们要追问:在这种表达中,谁是真正的定价权持有者?是 Nike 这样的商业巨头,还是那些定义了什么是“高级”的 couturiers?当一个女性运动员需要通过穿得像“水母”或“豹子”来获得文化话语权时,这恰恰证明了在体育这个由男性定义规则的领域中,女性的纯粹能力(actual capacity)往往不足以支撑她们获得足够的关注,必须依赖于被物化(objectified)的视觉符号来交换可见度。
这种现象是典型的共谋。商业品牌通过赞助将女性身体转化为流量入口,媒体通过赞美其“戏剧性”将其纳入一种被凝视的客体框架,而运动员在追求个性的过程中,无意识地参与了这场关于“美”的规训。Serena 和 Venus 的时代开启了这种先河,但如果这种表达仅仅停留在“衣服好看”的层面,而没有触及对体育权力结构中性别不平等的解构,那么它就只是在父权制的审美牢笼里装饰了一层亮片。
真正的解放不是穿上更昂贵的礼服,而是当一个女性在赛场上无需通过任何“戏剧性”的装扮,其存在本身就能被视为绝对的主体,而非一个等待被评论的视觉样本。
The Athletic’s coverage employs a classic masculine lens: treating Naomi Osaka’s entrance as a 'catwalk' and her body as a mere mannequin for couture. The obsessive use of words like 'glittered,' 'shimmered,' and 'dramatic' constructs a romantic narrative of fashion and courage, but in reality, it dilutes the female athlete's competitive value by converting it into a visual spectacle.
Osaka claims to 'talk' through her clothes, framing it as self-expression. But we must ask: who holds the actual pricing power in this expression? Is it the commercial giants like Nike or the couturiers who define what is 'high fashion'? When a female athlete must dress as a 'jellyfish' or a 'cheetah' to capture cultural discourse, it proves that in the male-defined realm of sports, raw capacity is often insufficient for visibility. They must trade in objectified visual symbols to be seen.
This is a textbook case of complicity. Brands transform the female body into a traffic gateway, the media frames her as an object to be gazed upon by praising her 'drama,' and the athlete, in pursuit of individuality, unconsciously participates in this aesthetic discipline. Serena and Venus pioneered this, but if the expression stops at 'looking good' without dismantling the gendered power structures of sports, it is merely adding sequins to the walls of a patriarchal cage.
True liberation is not wearing a more expensive gown. It is when a woman’s presence on court is recognized as an absolute subject, without needing any 'dramatic' costume to justify her visibility.